Cross Creek Animal Clinic / Your Cat

Congratulations on having been adopted by a cat! While cats are generally long-lived companions, with proper care, today’s cats are aging well and living even longer. The following pages should provide you with most of the information you will need to make this long-term relationship a positive and rewarding one.

We are providing detailed information on a wide variety of matters important to know in order to: 1.) get off to a good start; 2.) To keep your cat healthy and 3.) To live successfully with your cat.

Good Rules to Follow:

1.) Do not punish a cat for not using a litter box. You will worsen the problem.
2.) Never use carpeted scratching posts. You will teach inappropriate marking.
3.) All cats suffer from some degree of fur ingestion, even if they don’t tell us.
4.) Never rush or force cat introductions for better long term cat family society.
5.) Feed high protein canned diets and prevent many common health problems.
6.) Take care of the teeth to preserve life of kidneys and prevent severe mouth pain.
7.) Keep your numbers down! Three seems an optimum number.
8.) Have more litter boxes than cats and keep them clean.
9.) Test new cats to be introduced into the home for FeLV and FIV ahead of time.
10. Keep kittens out of the litter boxes of the older cats. Reduces the chance of FIP.
11.) Vaccinate appropriately according to the lifestyle of your cats. See below.

The vaccination protocol used by CCAC is chosen to maximize protection of the kitten against disease during its most vulnerable period—8 to 16 weeks of age. Ideally vaccines begin around 8 or 9 weeks of age right after weaning and are repeated every 4 weeks through 16 weeks. This is because weaning kittens start to lose the antibodies from “first” milk or colostrum. Those kittens with excellent immunities may not need their shots until 12 or 14 weeks of age…. the rest may fall in between 8 weeks and 12 weeks…but we simply don’t know how immuno-competent a kitten may be…so rather then gamble with the kitten’s health we vaccinate at four week intervals until the age of 16 weeks. What is magical about 16 weeks? At that age studies have shown most kittens have few maternal antibodies left to protect the kitten from disease and interfere with vaccination. 16 weeks also coincides with the eruption of the first permanent teeth. Coincidentally, four months is the age at which a mother cat (or queen) begins to forcefully evict her kitten from her territory.

CCAC immunizes all kittens for the upper respiratory and distemper viruses using the FVRCP vaccine. FVRCP stands for: feline rhinotracheitis (FVR) or cat flu (caused by feline herpes virus), calici virus or the limping virus (C) and feline distemper (panleukopenia virus (P). All kittens by state law must receive a rabies vaccine and if they are going to enjoy the outdoors, they also receive feline leukemia vaccines. (There are two in the initial series.) The actual vaccines and our reason for using them are discussed below.

Our feline vaccines have been chosen based on the safest effective products available. Merial Purevax are specifically designed for cats only and are adjuvant free vaccines. Adjuvants are compounds added to vaccines to cause inflammatory reactions at the injection site in order to stimulate the immune system to produce antibodies. They are found in killed virus vaccine products. Producing antibodies against a disease is the whole point of vaccinating. However felines have shown a special sensitivity (which may be, in part, genetic) to adjuvants and some studies have implicated them in the occurrence of fibrosarcomas at these injection sites in cats. By using Purevax adjuvant free vaccines and Heska intranasal vaccines, we have substantially reduced risk of this cancer. Our feline leukemia vaccine (also a Purevax product) is a special transdermal vaccine. This vaccine uses less volume and is delivered without a needle, by a very short high-pressure injection into the lower layers of the skin (dermis) directly to the cells designed to produce antibodies.

Two other feline vaccinations are available. One, for kittens going into households with other adult cats is the Primucell FIP (feline infectious peritonitis) vaccine. This is given as nasal drops two weeks apart before exposing a new kitten to the litter boxes of existing cats in a household. It is given only under these circumstances to protect naïve kittens against the Feline Corona Virus commonly shed by healthy adult felines, but with potentially deadly consequences for genetically predisposed kittens and their immature immune systems. Some controversy remains about the efficacy of this immunization.

Another intranasal vaccine used extensively at the clinic guards against the herpes and calici viral infections that produce cat flu or cat colds. This vaccine complements the ‘shot’ form given as part of the regular vaccine protocol, developing a different form of protection called ‘cell-mediated’ immunity, locally at the site of virus infection – the nasal passages. This vaccine is particularly effective for cats exposed to other kitties when boarding or going to the groomers or making frequent visits to the vet. It goes to work quickly once in a cat’s nose to guard against these airborne viruses.

During the lifetime of a cat, vaccination is recommended according to individual exposure but especially for young cats when the immune system is immature. Otherwise, Panleukopenia at three-year intervals as suggested by the American Feline Practitioners Association to maintain healthy titers against this disease may be appropriate for your cat. The upper respiratory viruses are more difficult to vaccinate against and the vaccination intervals need to be more closely tailored to the needs of the individual cat. Currently there is no adjuvant free rabies vaccine approved for two or three years. Therefore at CCAC rabies is given annually using the safer Merial Purevax adjuvant free product.

Today all the common parasites found in or on the cat can be effectively, economically, and safely controlled. There is no reason for cats to have fleas. We have the answer; in fact we have many successful answers in good, safe products for fleas. Fleas need to be prevented since they not only cause suffering, anemia and hair loss but blood born diseases such as Bartonella, a bacteria responsible for cat scratch fever in humans, and, possibly, Haemobartenella (old name), a cause of serious anemia. Tapeworms, flea bite dermatitis and flea allergic dermatitis are common annoying sequelae of flea infestations. It is less expensive to treat the cat for fleas then to treat the premises for fleas. We have worked out safe, effective protocols for dealing with fleas on your cat. Generally, if topicals are being used for flea control, it is rational to use a product that also deworms and protects against heartworm disease in cats (which cats do not do well with, generally)

Tapeworms are common in cats, the result of ingestion of fleas during grooming. They are not infectious cat to cat or to humans. The owner usually diagnoses the problem by observing the proglotids or end segments (tiny white worm-like structures) which emerge from the cat’s anus and move along the hair, dropping onto the bedding. These dry into structures resembling brown rice or sesame seeds. They contain hundreds of tapeworm eggs and provide food for flea larvae that consume them and in turn, as hatched fleas, ingested by cats (or dogs), develop into tapeworms and complete the cycle.

Heartworm, carried by mosquitoes, is a silent and insidious killer of cats in Florida. Because cats are not the preferred host of this parasite, once infected, cats react more seriously to the parasite’s presence and cats, unlike dogs, cannot be treated for heartworm. Inside cats are at almost as great a risk for heartworm infection as their outdoor counterparts. Heartworm disease can be easily prevented with monthly topical or oral preventatives (these are both prescription items). The topicals also deworm your cat and protect against fleas.

Ear mites are commonly found here in kittens, especially those coming from shelter situations or feral random bred homes. Highly infectious and irritating…they can spread from kitten to cat within the household. Again, specific topicals (systemic or local) work well for these infestations with very little effort on your part (as opposed to the old days).

Ringworm is a fungal infection found primarily in kittens or immuno-suppressed adults. It is infectious to young children and young adults. New treatment protocols have made this a much more easily and safely treatable condition. However, even with our new drugs, tincture of time and frequent bathing may still be required.

Note: Over the counter brands of dewormers, and flea and tick remedies have two things in common, 1) they are not very effective against the target pest and 2) they are more toxic for your pet. Avoid them. The same goes for flea and tick collars which also pose a physical danger to a cat since they are not designed to break away if the cat gets entangled, can cause skin reactions, and in one case presented to CCAC, got caught in the cat’s mouth whereupon the ingested toxin caused the cat to seizure.

Apart from the health benefits for the cat, which are significant from this surgical procedure, there are real behavioral benefits as well. We recommend spaying your kitten at six months or six pounds, whichever they reach first. They should be current on their vaccines and must be healthy. Cat neuters can go home the same day; spays, however, spend the night in the clinic to meet the requirement of confinement. We use modern pain medications to make sure that cats are kept comfortable during their stay and at home.

CCAC will not alter cats or kittens immediately out of a shelter environment. Anesthesia and surgery lower immunity. Exposure to disease in these kitty-dense situations, warrant waiting a couple of weeks for incubating illness either to manifest and pass, or, if the adoptee is already ill, to allow sufficient time for your pet to be nursed back to health. If surgery is performed during illness or incubation of illness, the illness will likely be made worse.

Behavioral benefits of altering include preventing or stopping urine marking associated with sexual maturity in both sexes (males spray, females puddle). Female cats become extremely vocal during heat cycles as well, calling loudly and continuously for a mate. A female’s heat cycle can last 3 weeks or longer and females will come into heat every three weeks until they breed or are spayed. Additionally both sexes when altered, are far less likely to bolt out the door in search of romance. Unaltered males will roam up to two miles and females can simply get lost and not find their way back home after an amorous encounter. If they should get outside, spaying and neutering not only prevents pregnancies, but fighting and mating behaviors which can expose your cat to infection and the incurable diseases, feline leukemia and feline immunodeficiency disease (FeLV and FIV). Cat abscesses from such fights can require veterinary attention.

Once altered, indoor-outdoor kitties spend their time in a greatly restricted territory—their yard or their sunning deck! Spay/neutering also changes the cat’s perspective. People, not mates, become the center of their life. Well, almost…food is first…cats are pragmatists.

Health benefits include improved coats, muscle mass, stronger immune systems, lower possibility of mammary cancer and prevention of pyometra (abscessed uterus) in females and longer lifespans. (Professional breeders have observed that breeding reduces the lifespan of a cat by as much as 3 years). Altered cats are more beautiful felines. For proof of this attend a cat show and check out the “alter class.” Among the spayed and neutered individuals of these purebreds you will find the most beautiful examples of their breed: the fullest furred, best muscled and most well behaved representatives. These, the judges of the Cat Fanciers Association will quickly point out are the “ideal” cat that the hormones masked.

Contrary to what has been frequently written, spay/neuter surgery will make the majority of cats put on unwanted pounds. Science is now telling us this is due to both hormonal and metabolic changes as much as altered lifestyle. Feeding an adult high protein wet diet as soon as a kitten is altered is recommended, and monitoring weight, compensating feeding amounts, avoiding diets high in carbohydrates, etc. will be needed throughout life for most cats to maintain optimum body mass. In fact, now that we have given our cats the blessings of health and peace that spaying and neutering bring, we are obligated to manage their weight to insure them long life as well. Here is why.

Why are our cats fat? More and more, science is pointing to what we are feeding cats as the culprit causing obesity rather then how we are feeding cats. Cats are obligate carnivores. Simply put that means they must eat meat or they die or they get sick, or at best they do not thrive. They have evolved metabolically to utilize meat protein and for all their needs, therefore they do not utilize carbohydrates well; in fact, they do not need to consume them as they can produce glucose directly from protein. Cats either lack enzymes used in digesting and metabolizing carbohydrates, or are poor producers of them. Millions of years ago in a quirk of reverse evolution ancestral cats turned off the genes that manufacture some of those enzymes, and until they domesticated themselves and moved into our homes, this genetic streamlining had not been a problem. Cats fed high protein, low carbohydrate diets tend to lose fatty weight if they are obese, maintain good muscular weight if they are not, and are less likely to experience other problems associated with eating high fiber, high carbohydrate diets. It is the carbohydrates in dry foods that make cats fat because the cat is unable to readily utilize the carbohydrate, but preferentially stores them as fat. To make matters worse, we “free feed” kibble allowing cats to munch whenever, whether out of boredom or protein hunger. Dry food is over-eaten junk food (“Cracker Jacks”) for many cats.

Forget the television commercial that talks about “the grains and greens your cat craves.” Any preference for food can be a learned response…but an instinctive craving for meat exists in kittens as young as three weeks. As young as three weeks, a kitten will growl and hiss when presented with raw meat. Cereals have yet to produce that response! As for the claim for greens, the only vegetable matter the feline can utilize are those predigested in the gut of a prey animal or those grasses it eats to help it regurgitate a fur ball! Since the majority of us are unable or disinclined to provide a balanced raw meat diet for our resident carnivore, we need to find the next best substitute.

Cats need to eat a high quality canned diet rather then dry formulations. Why not convenient, less expensive kibble? Because the only way to make dry food is to add grain to meat protein…. lots of grain in fact. Kibble is approximately 35% carbohydrate. We compound the problem by free feeding, allowing the cat to nibble out of boredom or from protein hunger.

Another big benefit in feeding canned food is water. As descendants of felis lybica, a North African desert cat, the house cat retains those adaptations for living in a dry climate…they do not feel thirst until they are already physiologically dehydrated; this in an animal who already concentrates its urine, depending primarily on food as a water source. Male cats walking around in a state of dehydration who crunch down on kibble as their daily fare will concentrate urine even more, which may cause crystals to form in the urine and cause cystitis (inflammation of the bladder wall), thus potentiating urethral blocking.

Cats’ kidneys are already concentrating urine as they eliminate toxins from the bloodstream. Dehydration overworks the kidneys and can only shorten the life of these precious organs. Renal failure is a leading cause of death in older cats. Consider the damage a lifetime of kibble may do to a cat’s kidneys.

Nationally cats, like their human counterparts, are experiencing an obesity epidemic. Besides all the health risks they share with humans from being overweight, they are also at risk from a feline disorder called hepatic lipidosis or fatty liver disease. Cats are not efficient at mobilizing body fat and converting it to energy, so when obese cats stop eating for any reason, fat called out of their tissues and into their livers for metabolism, sits there awaiting manufacture of the enzyme to convert it to glucose. The process is too slow and most of it ends up replacing liver cells. Unchecked, this disease destroys the liver.

In fact, the cat’s metabolism will preferentially cannibalize its own muscle mass for glucose conversion before it will convert its body fat. Thus we see cats that are both obese AND poorly muscled. They have cannibalized their muscle, but their fatty tissue is still intact. Many such cat also have very flaky skin. Anorexic cats may be actually jaundiced, or yellow, from hepatic lipidosis.

Additionally fat cats are much more prone to diseases such as diabetes, heart stress and cystitis.

Kittens learn what ‘food’ is by what mother teaches them to eat. Experiments have been done with kittens where they were taught that mashed bananas were proper food and they happily accepted them as their fare. To avoid problems throughout life, teach a kitten to enjoy a wide variety of foods…fish, poultry, beef, pork, liver, etc. (Avoid bananas.) Creatures of habit, it is very difficult to retrain a cat to a different diet as an adult, so continue variety throughout life.

Cats are semi-domesticated. Cats groom themselves to eliminate scent from their fur (as predators they do not want to give themselves away to prey) and to keep themselves clean of food and parasites. In doing so, they ingest hair (little hooks on their tongues), lots of it if fleas or allergies are present. Also, the longer the fur is, the bigger the fur ball is. This fur tends to stay retained in the stomach. A cat’s primary mechanism for ridding itself of ingested hair is vomiting. It is a natural, normal process. Given the cat’s anatomy, (a narrow small intestine) far better to come up then pass through.

What is unnatural is if large amounts of hair cause a large fur ball that remains in the stomach, scratching the stomach lining and stimulating the production of hydrochloric acid. Over time, it causes what in us we would call acid reflux disease and which is just as uncomfortable for the cat! In the gut the hair can be equally cruel, scouring the intestinal lining and impeding the absorption of food. Not only are these cats inappetant from nausea and vomiting, but also they absorb less food. Such cats present at the doctor’s office with ‘bumpy’spines, having lost muscle mass along either side of their backbone from lack of nutrition. Additionally, hair that accumulates in the intestines can cause temporary blockages and constipation. Complete obstructions of the bowel are also possible. Some hair balls in the stomach become too large to go in either direction and remain lodged against the stomach wall where they stimulate acid production that erodes the stomach lining. These must be surgically removed.

Once your cat has been diagnosed with fur ball gastritis the treatment will take 7 days to 3 weeks to recover. The approach is two-fold: 1) address the overproduction of stomach acid and 2) coat the digestive tract with soothing petroleum distillate to help expel hair and fur mats.

Since cats come into their mature hair coat between 18 months and 2 years of age, fur balls become a serious issue for every cat, longhair or short hair, because their shedding patterns mature along with their coats. Owners should be vigorous about coat care, brushing or combing regularly as the cat’s coat requires. In difficult cases bathing or even annual shave downs may be needed. Hairball treats, foods and cat lax should also be added to the daily regimen especially during shedding seasons, spring and fall. Also remember that the older the cats become, the harder it is for their digestive tract to handle ingested fur.

Kittens and cats have an instinct to utilize litter for elimination. The behavior starts at three weeks of age, as soon a kitten can wander a little from the nest. It can be reinforced by watching mother…kittens learn by copying other cats’ behavior (thus the term “copy cat!”)

Kittens do not have the control over their bladders and bowels that adults have and also need to go more frequently then adults. Therefore litter boxes should be close enough for a kitten to reach when the urge arises. If you have more then one story, be sure to have litter boxes on each floor.

The products in the litter box should be well formed small stools that are dark and not terribly malodorous. Loose, foul smelling stools indicate a problem that should be addressed with the veterinarian. Causes can range from simple dietary indiscretion, to parasites, bacterial overgrowth, to food allergies, improper diet or enzyme insufficiencies.

There is a wide range of litter available today. The most important aspect of litter from the perspective of your health and the cat’s health is to find a litter that is as dust free as possible. Your cat’s preference is the final arbiter of which litter you will ultimately use.

Sand or scoopable litters are long lasting but still should be scooped daily. Most cats prefer this substrate under their toes. Very small kittens should be observed for any propensity to ingest their litter (tasting is a way of exploring the world) and in kittens who do this, this type of litter must be avoided until they are older in favor of gravel.

Feline pine and pelleted newsprint litters are dust free and control odor, and, if used as instructed are just as economical. They have the added benefit of being environmentally sound, but beware, some cats do not like the ‘feel’ of these litters and will refuse to use them. When it comes to cat litter, the cat’s personal preferences trump the owners every time!

While gravel litters are initially inexpensive, they may be very dusty and not very absorbable and must be changed daily.

Converting cats from one type of litter substrate to another or even one brand of litter within a substrate to another should be done with care. Mixing substrates whenever possible during conversion is recommended. In the case of transitioning to pelleted litters, detailed instructions are available on the package label.

The hooded litter box is an invention for our convenience not that of the cat. It has nothing to do with giving them privacy and everything to do with preventing them from scattering litter material around the floor surrounding the box or worse still eliminating over the edge of their container. Since the majority of cats adjust well to boxes with hoods the added convenience they provide justifies using them. The same can be said for automated cat boxes. On the other hand some owners have abandoned them because their cats developed a fascination with the mechanization having learned how to trigger the movement. Not unlike their fascination with flushing toilettes the constantly scooping boxes tickled their feline funny bone…even during the wee hours of the night, to the annoyance of sleep deprived owners.

Provide one regular size litter box for each of your cats and fill it with at least 10 pounds of scoopable litter. If you have multiple cats (four or more) you can utilize jumbo-sized litter boxes, at least one for every two cats in a household filled with 20 to 30 pounds of litter. Cleanliness and location are the most important issues. If the boxes are small, then have one more than the number of cats in the household.

Do not punish a cat for not using a litter box. It absolutely never corrects the problem and absolutely always makes a bad situation worse.

Litter boxes should not be located in areas that are noisy or busy with traffic. Dogs should not have access to a cat box because of their penchant for eating cat feces and because the cat requires a sense of privacy and safety with his litter duties. Cats prefer to defecate away from water and food sources. Cats prefer clean boxes, frequently scooped of feces and urine clumps. In multiple cat households the rule is one more regular box than the number of cats (or one Jumbo box per two cats) and it is especially important to locate boxes so that the cats can see their housemates comings and goings. This prevents the cat from being ambushed to, from, and in, the box. In turn, this helps avoid litter box aversions.

When cats do not utilize their litter box the problem can be, A. Physical, or B. Behavioral, or both. The sooner the issue is addressed the better. If it is physical it could become life threatening, if it is behavioral, the longer it continues, the more difficult it becomes to address.

Feline Cystitis, or bladder inflammation, can be a medical emergency in a male cat, whose small urethral opening is easily blocked by swelling or debris. Also known as FLUTD for Feline Lower urinary Tract Disease, it can result in the production of tiny crystals in the urine which is usually bloody. The cat often urinates much more frequently but is unable to pass more then a few drops of urine. Urine can then back up into the kidneys and destroy these vital organs very quickly. To treat this unhappy situation, catheters are placed in these cats and they overnight for several days till they recover in the clinic and can again urinate on their own. Antibiotics, anti-inflammatory agents and special diets may be prescribed.

In female cats, while blocking does not occur, they can experience severe discomfort and pain from the condition, and may eventually develop bladder stones.

Cats who are having difficulty or pain urinating usually signal they are having a problem by urinating outside of the box, around the box, in the shower, bath tub or on the bathroom floor. Blood may be visible in the urine. Cats may go in and out of the litter box frequently trying to void but unable to produce much or any urine. Cats who are particularly tuned into their owners will often urinate in front of them to signal they are in physical distress.

Cats who are expressing a behavioral issue mark territory, usually around doors or underneath windows and spray vertically. Cats in early onset of cystitis may present with territorial marking behavior, therefore, a urinalysis is always recommended in order to differentiate.

The best recommendation for prevention of cystitis in cats is to feed a high protein canned food diet and avoid dry food diets. This helps prevent obesity and dehydration, both factors known to increase the risk of cystitis.

Territorial marking in cats (usually but not exclusively males) is difficult to treat, but can frequently be managed. Many cases will require at least some access to the out of doors. Statistically one out of ten male cats (regardless of whether they are neutered or whole) will mark territorially. The behavior can present itself any time after social maturity is achieved around 2 years of age whenever an environmental trigger presents itself. It is impossible to determine which male kittens will grow up to become territorial markers, therefore, holding open a future necessity for outside access in dealing with this behavior should be taken into consideration when discussing declawing surgeries for male kittens.

Think of territorial marking as the cat’s way of putting a sign on places and objects that reads “mine.” Spraying behavior is distinctive when witnessed. Male cats back up to the object, treading with their hind feet, their tail erect and vibrating while spraying a stream of urine. Marking usually takes place at entrances to the home, or under windows from which they have probably witnessed cats entering their yard. If you are unsure which cat is spraying you may look for other signs of his heightened territorial imperative, such as, increased allorubbing (marking with scent glands under their chin and the base of their tail, on the corners of furniture, kitchen cabinets and around owners legs), and increased scent marking by scratching (leaving both visual marks and scent from glands in their paws).

The stimulus for territorial marking is usually a perceived threat to position within the household feline hierarchy or a perceived threat to the territory from an outside interloper. Under stressful conditions (from the cat’s perspective), the threshold for territorial tolerance seems to be lowered. Cystitis can lower this threshold, so that you can have a physical condition actually be the stimulus for a territorial behavioral issue. Even after the cat has been cured of the physical condition, the behavioral condition continues.

Litter box aversion by one member of a multi-cat household can lead to territorial responses from housemates that lead to intra-cat aggression and territorial marking. In groups determining “who is the culprit” can be achieved through feeding individuals dyes that color urine.

Since stress lowers the threshold of tolerance for that 10% of susceptible territorial males, pheromones such as Feliway, have been a good way for many multiple cat households and catteries to manage the inevitable territorial stress and help prevent or limit territorial marking. Since crowding and competition for access to necessities including owner’s attention causes territorial stress, limiting the size of your cat family is key. The addition of one cat too many may be all it takes to start a cascade of territorial marking.

Cats have to “scratch.” It is part of the feline package. This is not a behavior you train a cat not to do. You can, however, train a cat to redirect the behavior within your territory and, thus, spare your furniture.

Why do cats scratch? They scratch to welcome us to shared territory, inviting us to come and scratch the “mark” with them. They scratch as an expression of happiness and joy. They scratch to help them imbed their claws in order to stretch muscles (yoga is a cat invention). They scratch to de-sheath their claws and keep them sharp and comfortable. They scratch to scent and visually mark territory.

CCAC believes that while de-clawing is, in certain instances, the only option, it is preferable to train a cat to scratch appropriately then to rush into the declawing procedure. Most kittens can be trained to appropriate scratching devices starting at the earliest possible age and using attractive catnip sprays and aversive sprays or tape. Cat trees and scratching posts should feature bark, sisal or cardboard surfaces, never carpet or fabric. Cats like to get full extension when they stretch so a post designed for a six-week old kitten is totally inadequate for a 16 week old or a full grown cat. Four feet is a good height for a scratching post (the taller and more tree-like, the more attractive the post). The post also needs to be heavy and stable. Cats can have very enthusiastic scratching sessions so it is important that the post not tip over. Ideally have more then one scratching post and have horizontal mats as well as cats do vary their preferences in this regard. Multiple posts and/or mats should be positioned in the most heavily trafficked family areas. Devices to disincline cats to scratch certain surfaces (such as sofa arms) can be purchased or made during the training period. Aversive sprays such as citrus scents or a special sticky tape are also effective, remembering cats are drawn by scent left by the sweat glands on their paw pads to surfaces they have previously scratched.

Cat trees can be a wonderful addition to a cat’s world and a good investment in protecting furniture from shedding and scratching damage. When considering a cat tree, buy the tallest tree you can afford with most of the platforms or perches placed high. That is where cats prefer to spend their time (studying you!) Do not purchase trees with carpeted climbing posts as these reinforce carpet as a scratching substrate. If that is all you can find, strip the carpet and have them rewound with sisal rope.

Cats trained to scratching posts develop a touching welcoming behavior described by many owners as follows: owners upon entering the house find their cats routinely run to the post and scratch vigorously, pausing with claws embedded, looking over their shoulders inviting them to join in the activity. This welcome home renews the bonds by sharing scent and marks at their favorite post. In a sense, achievement of this result is like ”making lemonade out of lemons”.

Your cat is now eating a high protein diet, current on his vaccines according to his lifestyle and properly protected against external and internal parasites. After social maturity, especially on a soft food diet, paying attention to care of teeth becomes part of cat care. As part of the annual visits, kitty permitting, accumulated tartar can be scrapped from the teeth. Preventing periodontal disease can substantially increase the quality and quantity of your cat’s life. It is one of the most important elements in preserving kidney function in the aging cat and can prevent heart and digestive disease as well. The chronic infection in the mouth destroys precious kidney tissue that cannot be replaced, leading to CRF or chronic renal failure. While the natural aging process of cats seems to eventually lead them down the path of eventual CRF, more cats are sent there prematurely due to periodontal disease then any other factor. Cats start to require more dental care around 5 or 6 years of age when they may need their first “full” or anesthesia assisted dental when a complete cleaning and detailed examination takes place.

A common condition, FORLs or Feline Odontoclastic Resorptive Lesions, are extraordinary types of ‘cavities’, which occur in cats at any age. They are not cavities in the strict sense, but a process, which results in absorption of the tooth along the gum line. This condition is extremely painful once the pulp cavity is entered. Cat’s with these lesions eventually start eating less, or become picky eaters, show behavioral changes, or become reclusive. Extracting these teeth ultimately relieves the symptoms.

Cats recover rapidly and readily from tooth extractions—their healing rate has been estimated at three times that of a human. An owners concern about tooth loss should be weighed in the following context: The canine teeth are required for catching and holding prey and we have already done that for them. The carnassials are used to slice the meat off the bone and (witness the variety of treats, kibble and canned diets) we have already done that as well. Cat’s don’t chew food, having no ‘chewing teeth’ per se, so pulling teeth does not pose any hardship on their capacity to continue to ingest and enjoy the nutritious bounty you provide them morning and night. They do, however, greatly benefit from freedom from pain.

The most important rule is the slower you go, the longer you take, the greater the chance of a successful and seamless introduction. Studies have shown that the majority of failures in this category have been due to lack of understanding of the requirements of the cats for proprieties of proper introductions.

Studies have shown that an adult cat introduced to the resident cat often requires a significant amount of time (8 months to a year) to begin to show acceptance behaviors such as scent sharing (allogrooming and allorubbing) and tolerance of shared space. Cat to cat introductions should be controlled and implemented gradually by providing opportunity for the cats to watch or sniff each other without direct. In fact, rushing introductions is the major contributor to the social stress which develops problems with acceptance and can lead to fighting and is usually the reason introductions fail. Cats have long memories, a trait that works against them if they have a bad experience during initial introductions.

Kittens, on the other hand, want to belong. They are designed to be obsequious, sidling up to the first thing in fur they see, ignoring you in favor of the larger feline. No amount of rebuffs will dissuade a determined kitten. If the resident cat is elderly and arthritic, give him or her space and a place away from that persistence and get a second kitten instead to redirect those energies. If a male is the resident cat, don’t leave them alone until the kitten is about half grown and the two have come to an ‘uncle-nephew’ arrangement. If the older cat is female, she will probably serve as a stern disciplinarian until the kitten gets larger, but will not hurt it.

Why are cats intolerant of other felines? Cats are predators. Their bodies are weapons. They are literally armed to the teeth. They have nervous systems wired to react first and think later. Therefore they can hurt each other – badly. To prevent this from happening accidentally, cats have developed sophisticated body language and complex rules of social behavior. For their own safety, cats maintain distance between themselves and to this end cats have developed elaborate protocols. Here are but a few examples of some of these rules which we have observed:

It is impolite and aggressive to stare into each other’s eyes. It is only polite to look at each other if the other cat is not looking back.

If caught in an embarrassing or compromising situation, diffuse the propensity for aggression by grooming oneself and so appear casual and confident.

It is impolite and aggressive to sniff noses or tails if you have not been previously introduced.

Mutual grooming occurs between equals or ‘friends’. However grooming of one cat by another can occur as an act of domination or can be a prelude to aggression.

Sleeping spaces are owned (including cat beds), although the same spot may be utilized on a time-share basis throughout the day.

Within a group (two or more) a hierarchy exists. But unlike dogs and people, the structure is fluid, with the group made up of many co-equals. Pariah cats or bottom of the rung unfortunates can exist within a group and should be identified by owners and given special protection by their owners.

Cats, unlike dogs, have long memories. They are quick to anger and slow to calm. (After a cat “explosion” leave the cat alone for a cooling off period up to 24 hours. Hormones and steroids released are very slow to leave the bloodstream. It may very well be beyond your ability to calm your friend until these chemicals effects have worn off.)

Polite, safe distances must be maintained. Cats, like mathematicians, have derived a complex formula involving volume, time of day, and number, age, and sex to determine this.

Felids meeting each other on a path must defer to each other according to their status,

Finally, kittens must learn all these rules the hard way from other cats. Cuffing and boxing (claws retracted) is the preferred teaching methodology.

When coming into a new household, a cat sees things in this order of importance:

What are the boundaries of the new territory?
Are there other cats here?
Where are the necessaries? i.e. hiding places, food, water, litter box.
We, their people, are at the bottom of this checklist

To avoid immediate inter cat aggression, give the newcomer his own room for as long as it takes him to settle and be confident. Then let him explore the house with the other feline inhabitants put up in his room…so that he can make a mental map of his new territory and get familiar with the other cat’s odors while they familiarize themselves with his presence through his scent. When he shows confidence and comfort in his new territory, he is ready to begin slow introduction to his housemates….playing footsies under the door for several days with toys is a good start. Start feeding the cats together and separating them after meals…it is a positive way of bringing them together. Bring them together for treats and then separate. Take your time. The idea is to prevent cat spats by going slow and you will better insure acceptance. Remember, “cats are quick to anger and slow to forget.” Don’t set a deadline…let the cat’s let you know when they are ready. It may take weeks, or months.

When introducing a kitten into a household with an elderly cat, or a female adult, it is better to bring a pair of littermates into the house. They will maintain their bond and play together, allowing the adult to have the space and peace they prefer.

Female cats are more protective of territory then males and therefore much less tolerant of other cats. Therefore by social maturity (18 months,) it is very hard to successfully introduce another cat or kitten into a single female household. If your intention is to have more then one cat and you have a female kitten, acquire the second cat before social maturity of the female takes place.

Always try to adopt a pair of littermates. Kittens teach each other how to play without pain…they teach each other how to retract their teeth and claws in play. It is very difficult for people to duplicate this play lesson…so adopting a pair of kittens almost always acts as insurance against biting, clawing and aggressive play behavior, which can develop especially in some males. Another plus of kittens in pairs is that they are much less likely to annoy their owners by waking them in the middle of the night or early hours for play time or attention. Undoubtedly kittens offer each other companionship and entertainment. Undeniably watching kittens cavort together is universally accepted as more entertaining then television.

Cat Fancy Magazine (recommend one year subscription for the first time cat owner)

The Tribe of Tiger, Cats and Their Culture by Elizabeth Marshall Thomas
The Cat Who Cried for Help by Nicholas Dodman, DVM

Cat Owner’s Home Veterinary Handbook by Delbert G. Carlson, DVM and James M. Griffin, MD
The Cornell Book of Cats by Faculty, Staff and Associates of Cornell Feline Health Center